Wine Bloggers Wednesday #75 - Single Vineyard
March 20, 2012
Busy as usual and scrambling to keep loose ends under control, I find myself on the eve of #WBW75, the semi-periodic gathering of the wine blogosphere to congregate around a content idea, and collaborate as a group to produce a topical resource that is novel and crowd sourced.
This particular virtual convention is hosted by the eminent 1WineDude Joe Roberts, who is in the process of living the dream — turning wine blogging into a sustainable economic model. So far, he’s making impressions, and we wish him well…for his own success, the rep of other wine bloggers, and for the leveling/expansion of the wine world. The topic this time, is single vineyard wines — meaning that all of the fruit came from the same bounded area, or ‘clos‘ as they are sometimes referred. There is a mysticism that surrounds wine made only from a selected plot, and it is generally believed that such a wine has the potential to reflect a true sense of place…terroir.
Three wines this evening that fit the criteria:
Anton Bauer 2007 Rosenberg Gruner Veltliner troken
The Rosenberg vineyard is lauded for its super grue-Vs, and this one is a fine example. Identified for its prolific wild roses early in the middle ages, the expressiveness of the wines are due to deep loess soil with some clay content.
Aromatic and dusty green apple skin and lime, white pepper, sultry and seductive.
Soft oily texture belies vibrant acidity, mid palate and widens to saline and granny smith, then ripe pear…continues to widen with spicy lingering that calls out for fish.
Good thing we had some…scallops quickly sauteed in grape seed oil and butter, after shallots had been caramelized. Crostini with skillet bacon jam and fresh avocado.
LINK to Rosenburg Vineyard location.
The next two wines hailed from sites nearly a hundred miles apart, but have similar geologic profiles…ancient bedrock thrusted up by tectonic movement, then depressed by several miles of ice during the last glacial period. Same rock was then flooded by an inlet of the Atlantic ocean for a few thousand years during the retreat of the ice, creating a limestone deposit, which in turn was covered by glacial and alluvial debris left by the melt.
Second course was some local chicken breasts roasted with herbs, served with wild mushroom and black truffle ravioli that I had scored in Astoria Queens while visiting friends and attending Return To Terroir a few weeks ago.
Les Pervenches 2010 Cuvée de Montmollin Marechal Foch
I have been wanting to visit this vineyard in Farnham, Quebec, for a few years now, and poor timing has always been an adversary. We did drive by a two springs ago, before the tasting room was open, and thought it best not to intrude on the tranquility. After a couple of attempts to schedule a field trip with our friends from Pane E Salute, our pals managed an excursion on their own, and brought us back this bottle. We are extremely grateful, because this little winery becomes “rupture du stock”, quite quickly each year…
Nose is beef brisket cooking over a green stick fire - herbal, earthy and saucy. Silky approach of soft acids expand to a mid-palate explosion of bramble fruit preserves and dried sour cherries. Extended tingle of acidity leaves salivary glands pumping, and ready for the next bite.
Tasting it, I thought it was a lighter fruitier version of Leon Millot, and when I looked it up, I found that it was the sister seedling, Marechal Foch.
LINK to Les Pervenches Vineyard location
Mystery Grape Vin de Glacier Cornell Baker Farm Willsboro
Dessert wine was enjoyed solo.
This grape was completely phenolically ripe…fruit flavor, seed nuttiness, skin tannins, delicious…only it’s Brix reading had been at 15 degrees for weeks. No going up in brix, and no desire to add a huge dose of cane sugar to the ferment, what is there to do with a couple of hundred pounds of fruit? Take a page out of the Quebecois manual, as inspired by our heroes at Eden Ice Cider, we did a cryo-extraction exercise, and pursued this purple project.
Purple is an understatement, inky staining purple so intense it hangs on the glass for a full minute. A completely drained glass, with water added, turns an enchanting amethyst.
A full wine at 13+ ABV, tempered tartness, residual sugar, and a long tannin run, make this wine a strange and tasty beast if I do say so. Folks like it, are not sure what to make of it, ask for more, and then start reeling off the dessert and cheese pairings for it…glad we have a few cases of half-bottles.
LINK to Baker Farm Vineyard location